Flagship Watches Need A Broader Size Range
Inspired by Cara Benett's "All Watches Should be Unisex" feature on Hodinkee
Sigh, let’s face it, I have a child's wrist. There’s just no getting around it, no amount of stuffing my face with peanut butter, Nutella, and syrup-drenched pancakes made with mass gainer instead of flour is going to change that. I did one of those BMI test kits where you wrap a band around your wrist when I was in high school and my score was unidentifiable. My wrist was literally so small that the band went such a short distance around my wrist it didn’t even show up on any of the colored bits. Even worse, I have forever had an affinity for watch designs of the larger persuasion. Take that beauty 300M Divers Tokyo 2020 SeaMaster pictured above. To me that’s the epitome of daily wear watch design that strikes a flair without being too flashy, it’s the perfect blend of my favorite colorways, white and blue, with a wonderful textured finish of the trademark waves that denote a SeaMaster. But, yes there’s a but. It looks absolutely gigantic on my wrist like someone shrunk down a planet but didn’t have enough juice in the shrink ray to reduce it small enough for stupid ass wrist.
Provided by Monochrome Watches
But hey this isn’t just about my wrist, this is about all wrists; small or big, male or female or otherwise. Why do watch manufacturers insist on producing watches only for plus-sized wrists or in the cases of something like a Rolex Date Just something too small for a bigger lad? Loving a design has no boundary for how burly or dainty your wrist happens to be. My favorite watch in my collection design-wise is my IWC Portugeiser that I stole from my brother's collection and he hasn’t realized yet (keep that on the hush). The only problem is every time I wear it feels like an anchor dragging me down into a swirling abyss, sticking out like a sore thumb in a blatant mismatched ratio of skin to steel.
My proposition is thus; always develop in threes. Say Omega releases a new SeaMaster Diver at a case size of 43mm. That’s a fairly large circumference with noticeable heft carried on the wrist. It’s never something I would be able to wear, not just because of how large the face is relative to my wrist but also the surface area will cover the majority of wrist pinching the bracelet around and not sitting flush on my hand, it’s a very awkward way to wear a watch especially on a steel bracelet. If the new SeaMaster was built with a ‘develop in threes’ design brief, it could reach a much larger set of audiences. I would go 43, 41, and 38. That’s a good range that doesn’t impede on the quality or finishing of the watch whilst being a bit more accessible to the skinny wrist gang. Anything in the top end of the ’30s can work at a pinch for me at least. I know they’re generally designed to be bigger watches but at least give the option. It’s like PDK vs Manual in Porsches, not everyone gets the manual but it’s very satisfying to know it’s there.
Provided by Watch My Diamonds
The best in the business right now for size range has to be Rolex, their date just series ranges from 36mm to 41mm and has a place for both men and women both in material, finish, and overall design. If other manufacturers are worried there won’t be enough deer to the water, try it in limited numbers if you’re hesitant on how the market will respond but at least give us the option. Just let my skinny little arms wear whatever my eyes keep drooling over.