Here’s why the MB&F Perpetual EVO is the McLaren Speedtail of watches

Limited in production, innovative, unattainable

If I were to liken MB&F to a car brand, I’m not sure I could. It is a ‘small batch’ brand, some would say a microbrand, founded and run by Maximilian Büsser (the name stands for Maxilimilian Büsser & Friends), a watch maker who knows exactly what he wants. Design-wise. I can, however, find an automotive equivalent for the LM Perpetual EVO and that is the McLaren Speedtail.

The Perpetual series was first launched fifteen years ago and this is the latest iteration, made from titanium, a wristwatch that looks unique and conventional at the same time. The new case is developed using a new monobloc shock-absorbing system called ‘FlexRing’, making this a very, very expensive G-Shock. Sort of.

The LM Perpetual Engine (i.e. the movement) was designed by Stephen McDonnell, an award-winning watch maker who specialises in perpetual calendars.

The 44 mm wears a bit smaller due to the short and curvy lugs with the semi-integrated rubber band, and the watch is rated at 80m of water resistance thanks to the screw-down crown. That’s a bit odd, by the way, water resistance is usually 50 or 100 mt.

McDowell’s engineering process was a bit unorthodox as he started out with a perpetual calendar complication, which only included 28 days per month. The idea is that ever month, every year, has at least 28 days, and then he simply added the days when needed.

Perpetual calendars are incredibly complicated. It normally means your watch knows the exact number of days (and corresponding date) for every day of every year from now until 2100 (standard deadline). Your phone can do that too, of course, but that’s just because your phone has a software that ’knows’ this stuff - hardwired into its electronic brain - whereas with a watch, it’s done with gears and mainsprings. It’s done mechanically.

The Perpetual EVO was already available in zirconium with an orange CVD dial plate, blue CVD dial plate or black PVD dial plate; and it is now also available in titanium with a green CVD dial plate.

Under the ‘hood’, you’ll find a 2.5Hz manual-winding movement with 41 jewels, 581 individual components and a 72-hour power reserve.

And now comes the part we’ve all been dreading: pricing. But first I need to explain why I think it’s similar to the Speedtail.

Just like the Speedtail, it looks ‘normal’ and unusual at the same time. Just like the Speedtail, it has features you don’t expect, like a 3-seat layout or a screw-down crown in a perpetual calendar. And just like the Speedtail, it’s essentially unattainable because it’s expensive + rare.

It costs CHF 152,000 + VAT in Switzerland, $176k / €142k / £127k + taxes everywhere else. Ouch.

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Comments (4)

  • It is very cool but unless I had Elon Musk or Donald Trump level of wealth I'd never even think about it 😉

      1 month ago
  • Here’s why the MB&F Perpetual EVO is the McLaren Speedtail of watches @tribe

      1 month ago
  • Waste of money

      1 month ago