- The phrase of one of the Michelin brothers: "This book comes out at the dawn of a new century and will last until it ends."

The Red Guide Michelin. Important restourant guide for every automotive person

And green Michelin guide

The Michelin Restaurant Guide is a small red book that millions of chefs around the world dream of getting into. The word “Michelin star” is associated with fancy cymbal structures, ceremonial and performance, as well as cosmic bills for lunch and queues of several months in length. A trip to a restaurant, noted in the Michelin Guide, is what happens in the life of an ordinary person, perhaps only once, but it is impossible to forget this event.

Why is it called the Red Guide? This is due to the fact that in France it is generally accepted to focus on the designation of color. For example, a credit card is more often called Carte Bleue - that is, literally a “blue card”.

Brief Guide's history

The Michelin Guide has been created by a company that has been producing tires with the same name since 1900. It was conceived as a guide for motorists in France and was issued free of charge along with tires. It was in the interests of tire manufacturers to stimulate young car traffic, and Michelin decided to dedicate the publication to traveling around the country: the reference book contained information on where to repair or refuel your car, stop for the night. In addition to this useful information, the guide contained a lot of advertising.

On the first pages of the guidebook were useful information on topics such as proper tire change and vehicle maintenance. The circulation of the first copy was 35 000.

The section about restaurants appeared in 1926 and turned out to be the most popular. In 1929, an application form for the first time appeared in the guide for readers to give them the opportunity to express their opinions on the choice of hotels and restaurants. Soon the Michelin brothers had to hire inspectors and release reference books for other countries.

Michelin’s guide was paid in 1922, after one of the brothers, Andre, saw that his magazine was a backup for a bench in a car repair shop. The Michelin Brothers removed all advertisements from the guidebook and began selling it for $ 2 each.

Until now, no ads in the Michelin Guide there.

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What is a Michelin Guide?

There are two types of Michelin Guids.

Green Michelin Guide contain a lot of information about the historical and natural attractions of the city, region or country. A distinctive feature of Michelin guides - detailed maps of cities and marks of all places on them.

As with the restaurant guide, the green guide uses a three-star rating system.

1 - One star marked the historical and cultural monuments.

2 - Received attractions, which would be nice to call in if they fall along the way.

3 - The most appreciated were the places to be visited in the first place, and for this visit it is worth to allocate a special day.

Photo credit: https://www.vicarious-shop.com

Photo credit: https://www.vicarious-shop.com

The data in green guides is always relevant - the creators monitor all changes in the city, region or country and regularly update the information.

Old and New. My collage. Photo credit: Amazon shop

Old and New. My collage. Photo credit: Amazon shop

Red Michelin Guide dedicated to the best hotels and catering establishments.

Photo credit: from internet

Photo credit: from internet

Famous stars of the best restaurants in the world are distributed by the Red Michelin Guide, but besides the stars, there are many other insignia in it. Among them:

Crossed knives and forks, the number of up to five, which marks the quality of each restaurant.

Coins, denoting places where you can dine for very modest money.

"Bib Gourmet" smiling face, which marked restaurants with exceptional cuisine at reasonable prices. I will tell you more about the very interesting history of the Michelin symbol very soon and add here a link to the article.

Other diferent symbols marking a beautiful view from the windows, an outstanding wine list and other restaurant features.

Photo credit: https://www.the-village.ru

Photo credit: https://www.the-village.ru

But the most important thing in them is the stars.

1 - star means a very good restaurant in its category.

2 - excellent cuisine, for which it makes sense to slightly change the route.

3 - the magnificent work of the chef, worthy to take a separate journey here.

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Photo credit: Michelin company

Photo credit: Michelin company

Previously, all information was available only from the guide. But now you can find out everything on the website or download the application.

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Using applications, users can:

- Find the desired restaurant and hotel by name or address or with an Internet connection through geolocation.

- Get access to the sites of your favorite hotels or restaurants.

- Place all selected restaurants or hotels in a list, on a map or using the function of augmented reality.

- Book a table in a restaurant or hotel room.

- Share information about your favorite restaurants and hotels with friends by sending a message by mail or posting it on Facebook or Twitter.

In addition to the sample prepared by the anonymous inspectors of the Red Guide MICHELIN, applications also allow users to post their opinions and advise others. To do this, they just need to create their own Michelin profile directly in the application.

Photo credit: Apps.apple.com

Photo credit: Apps.apple.com

Previously, the first stars in the form of flowers gave restaurants that had high prices. Six years later, Michelin stars are awarded for quality food only. The sophistication of the situation, service, atmosphere and location of the restaurant on the number of stars do not affect. The Michelin company did not change the rating system any more, but only supplemented it with some explanations.

The guide does not consider institutions without the author's cuisine (without a chef) and give preference to restaurants that honor the traditions of high cuisine in its French understanding. Michelin, considering its origin, prefers French chefs and French cuisine. They were accused of prejudice against new restaurants and favored by old friends such as Paul Bocuse.

Photo credit: https://www.bocuse.fr/

Photo credit: https://www.bocuse.fr/

The Bocuse dynasty began with his great-great-great-grandmother, a very talented chef who made a small tavern in her mill. From the middle of the 18th century, tavern was visited by various guests — peasants, boatmen, and other visitors to the mill who came to grind flour. The most famous cook of the 20th century, the legendary Paul Bocuse, has an interesting history of his life and a gift to create delicious dishes, passed down from generation to generation.

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Paul Bocuse itself. Photo credit: From internet

Paul Bocuse itself. Photo credit: From internet

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Guide compilers deny all charges. Paris has more 3 star restaurants than Belgium, Germany and the Netherlands all together. For many centuries the French have paid great attention to fashion and cuisine, they were leaders in this business, their craftsmanship reached its perfection.

Restaurants can not use information about the number of stars for promotional purposes. Michelin believes that the mention of a restaurant in their guide is in itself a good advertisement. Violators can be excluded from the rating. But restaurants often ignore it.

When I was in Paris, I saw such a restaurant, it was modestly decorated at the window with a small gold plaque with mention of the Michelin star. I did not get there because I was on an excursion ... It is necessary to fix it

Michelin inspectors

My translation from educational presentation on Russian language

My translation from educational presentation on Russian language

It is advisable not to have problems with metabolism: at least 2 times a day you will have to eat at a full-fledged restaurant lunch, and the inspector cannot try a piece and leave all the food on a plate.

Observation is very important to the inspector. Attention is paid to the presentation of dishes, cooking methods, quality and combination of products, the general atmosphere of the restaurant and the style of the chef.

Typically, inspectors choose from the menu the dishes that can best unlock the potential of the chef: with a lot of ingredients, a complicated way of cooking and nontrivial serving. Salads and soups are rarely ordered.

Vacancy

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My translation from educational presentation on Russian language

My translation from educational presentation on Russian language

Michelin is doing everything possible to preserve the anonymity of its inspectors. Among the leadership, not all met with them. During lunch, the inspector does not have to record anything so as not to give himself away. They are forbidden to communicate with journalists, and it is recommended to answer questions from friends and relatives about work indefinitely, for example: “I work in the same publishing house”.

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It is possible to photograph an inspector's food: he is unlikely to give himself out to this, because people constantly take a photo of their lunches and dinners, and there is nothing suspicious about it.

Rebecca Burr, a Michelin guide editor for the UK and Ireland, told how inspectors look for restaurants that may be worthy of an award. They study what they write on various tourist sites, read the local press, overhear other people's conversations and ask for advice.

To give the restaurant a rating (especially the first star), it is visited 2-3 times. They eat dinner once, dinner the next time, and the third they take a dish that they have already tried: this way they check if the kitchen works stably.

In 2003, the Michelin restaurant inspector, Remy Pascal, published the scandalous book “L'inspecteur se met à table” (“The Inspector Sits at the Table”), in which he uncovered the veil of secrecy and told how stars are awarded and why in the world quite often is biased, and the chefs of luxury restaurants do not always get their “stars” deservedly. The book made a lot of noise and caused a wave of indignation. Shortly after its publication, as expected, the brave man Pascal Remy was fired after 16 years with the company.

The book came out in small editions and was quickly swept off the shelves. But she did not find support from publishers in other countries. Still there was no translation into English and Russian.

Pascal Remy's book

Pascal Remy's book

The main from book

Inspectors do not undergo special training, since there is no school for culinary critic, as well as a taster. The most valuable quality controller - exquisite taste, supported by years of tasting dishes from day to day. The success of the inspector's visit to the restaurant depends on the ability to evaluate the presentation of dishes, the method of preparation, the quality and compatibility of products, and the style of the chef. It is extremely important not to attract too much attention to yourself, to behave like a regular visitor.

The reviewer is not able to taste what type of fish is served, but is able to determine the quality of the products. He does not have a certificate of professional sommelier, but he is able to evaluate the assortment, quality, prices and compliance of the proposed wines with the ordered dishes. As well as a quick look at the restaurant and the neighboring tables should make a verdict - whether the restaurant is worth a second visit or not. Each inspector must first put himself in the place of the traveler.

The inspector at the beginning of the year is assigned a geographical sector, where he must track and classify restaurants. Despite the annual reissue of the guidebook, most restaurants are checked only once every three years. The exception is the prestigious restaurants, marked by two or three stars, mainly - the legislators of modern French cuisine. It is no secret that the Michelin guide has similar special restaurants.

A star is awarded to a restaurant according to an agreed decision of several inspectors. Checks for a potential restaurant winner continue until the reviewers agree. Redeeming a restaurant star is much more difficult than lighting it up, because in this case the Michelin guide will have to admit his own inconsistency. For the year, the restaurant can not pick up more than one Michelin star. There are also inviolable restaurants that are the custodians of culinary traditions and trendsetters in gastronomy, led by famous French chefs Paul Bocuse, Michel Truagro, Georges Blanc, Michel Gerar and others.

My collage from Michelin Star Restaurants's dishes

My collage from Michelin Star Restaurants's dishes

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Michelin-starred restaurants pay a lot of attention to the unusual serving of food. They definitely need the space in the plate, around which it is necessary to organize the most complex, texture, taste, color and composition, all at once.

In this sense, the Garguyu salad from Chef Michel Bras is an example to follow for other chefs. Depending on the season, he selects new combinations of vegetables, herbs, flowers and seeds - up to 60 items in the form of slices, powder, mash and other condition, and all in one dish.

Restaurant Michel Bras (Lagiol, France). The Garguyu salad. www.bras.fr

Restaurant Michel Bras (Lagiol, France). The Garguyu salad. www.bras.fr

No less important is the originality of serving dishes. Visitor must be surprised. The Noma restaurant in Copenhagen bring to guests potato soup, which looks like a flower pot. Noma's cuisine can be considered rather a modern interpretation of the Nordic cuisine, rather than a classic cuisine, which, among other things, serves moss, lichen and bone marrow.

The book came out in small editions and was quickly swept off the shelves. But she did not find support from publishers in other countries; still there was no translation into English and Russian.

Photo credit: Quince Restaurant via Twitter

Photo credit: Quince Restaurant via Twitter

Sometimes serving is as unusual as expensive in the Quince restaurant in San Francisco.

The dish “Dog in search of gold” is a mix of roasted truffles, ceps, celery and chestnut puree. All this is laid out on a transparent film, under which is an iPad, which reproduces a video about searching for truffles with a specially trained dog.

The restaurant's chef, Michael Tusk, published a video on his instagram, which shows how the dish is created. Each IPad is carefully sterilized before serving.

Chef Michael Tusk. "Dog in search of gold" dish

Chef Michael Tusk. "Dog in search of gold" dish

La Cupula Restaurant on Tenerife is in harmony, the interior is reflected in the decoration of dishes, and the restaurant itself is located in an extremely picturesque place. A show at a Michelin restaurant can last from 3 hours to 6, with a change of dishes in small portions, but up to 12 or more. Guests are not hungry.

A panoramic restaurant striking for its colourful dome which brings to mind the explosion of a supernova! International and Canarian cuisine with a contemporary flavour. - MICHELIN guide inspectors. (My collage)

A panoramic restaurant striking for its colourful dome which brings to mind the explosion of a supernova! International and Canarian cuisine with a contemporary flavour. - MICHELIN guide inspectors. (My collage)

You can find more Michelin dishes on instagram

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One of the most expensive restaurants awarded Michelin stars is SubliMotion in Ibiza. A three-hour show will cost $ 1,761 per person. This includes a tasting menu of 20 dishes, as well as light and sound design, which should awaken all 5 senses.

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Dine here can only 12 people at the same time and at the same table. The interior adapts to the choice of the visitor: you can dine in any locality you have dreamed of. The creation of the atmosphere, in addition to the visual part, contributes to the selected microclimate and smells of the area. Food delivery takes place through special air chambers, which for some time remain floating in zero gravity. The waiters, bartenders and sommeliers surprise guests with a constant change of images. The presentation lasts 2 and a half hours.

SubliMotion in Ibiza. Photo credit: i_mova via Instagram.

SubliMotion in Ibiza. Photo credit: i_mova via Instagram.

The longest - since 1965 - 3 stars holds the restaurant Paul Bocuse in a suburb of Lyon. Paul Bocuse was born in Collonge-o-Mont-d’Or in 1926 and died in the same room, right above his own restaurant, in 2018.

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Created by me. Information from Education sites

Created by me. Information from Education sites

The guide is released once a year.

For many chefs around the world, getting and keeping Michelin stars is becoming an obsession. They work 16 hours a day, lack sleep, live in constant nervous tension. Their workers suffer from this, verbal abuse and assault on the kitchens of Michelin-starred restaurants are not uncommon.

Each year, on the eve of the guide’s release, the management representative personally calls the chefs, whose restaurants have received the third star, as well as those who have lost the third star.

The creators of the Michelin Guide constantly remind that the stars are awarded not to chefs, but to restaurants. Even if the chef leaves, the award will not affect this fact.

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The star is not an Oscar statuette, it cannot be touched. This is a recognition that is relevant here and now. Nevertheless, to associate the name of a particular chef with a star is a common practice, there are ratings that list the chefs with the highest number of awards, and Michelin stars are called “Culinary Oscar”.

Ratings that list the chefs with the highest number of awards

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The world's most famous chefs are Joel Robuchon (died 2018 at the age of 73) with 31 stars and Alain Ducasse with 21, both French. Famous chef brawler Gordon Ramsay from the UK - in 3rd place, he has 16 stars. Of the female chefs, most of all the stars of Carme Rawcalled from Barcelona are seven.

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Gordon James Ramsay (November 8, 1966) - the famous British chef. Its restaurants have been awarded 16 Michelin stars. His signature restaurant, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, based in London, has three Michelin stars. The popular leading British television show The F-Word, Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares and Hell's Kitchen, as well as their American twin television. (Wikipedia)

Having been in the studio of Top Gear, he helped prepare the dish at the personal lighthouse of Jeremy Clarkson far from civilization on the peninsula, Gordon also arranged a cooking show with James.

Once Gordon Ramsay admitted that he burst into tears when he learned that his restaurant had lost a star. Nominally, he no longer belonged to Gordon, although he continued to bear his name. In one talk show, Ramsay said that losing a star is like parting with a girl and losing the Champions League at the same time.

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More about the mystery of star taking from the Michelin sky

An employee of the Michelin-starred Daniel restaurant in New York said that the waiters listened to the guests' conversations and preliminarily google the information about them. Knowing that the guest has a celebration, as well as a local person or a visitor, whether it is associated with the restaurant business, or if it has a family, helps to serve them better. Some institutions in the US are trying to make the guest served by a waiter from the same state with it.

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“The main principle of cooking is not to change the recipe that works,” said Paul Bocuse, the most honored chef of France. Michelin-starred restaurants follow this rule without changing their menus for years, but few chefs are willing to work like machines. Anthony Bourdin remarked: “Making the best fish dish in New York is one thing, but making it unchanged day after day all your life is quite another.”

Stars are awarded not for the interior, but for the taste of the dish. Photo credit: ssv115511 via Pikabu and therivercafe via Instagram

Stars are awarded not for the interior, but for the taste of the dish. Photo credit: ssv115511 via Pikabu and therivercafe via Instagram

Not in all countries, Michelin representatives inspect restaurants. More recently, the editors of the guide turned their attention to Asia and North America. But, for example, the countries of Eastern Europe, including Russia, are ignoring the guide’s compilers.

First of all, inspectors do not go to Russia because of inadequate road quality, because the guide is primarily intended for car enthusiasts. They also fear corruption. And there is another difficulty: the French do not understand Russian cuisine at all, considering it too simple, so they do not know how to evaluate it.

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Michelin-starred chefs: Jay Faye (left) and Christophe De Lilly (right). Photo credit: christophedelellis via Instagram, us2travelmoments via Instagram , Wikipedia

Michelin-starred chefs: Jay Faye (left) and Christophe De Lilly (right). Photo credit: christophedelellis via Instagram, us2travelmoments via Instagram , Wikipedia

Restaurants with street food also get Michelin stars. All of them are located in Asia: Singapore, Hong Kong, and recently, in 2017, they were joined by the Jai Fay restaurant in the capital of Thailand, Bangkok. All dishes in it prepares itself Jay Fay - Auntie Mole. This respectable Chinese granny in ski glasses and a cap (her piece) invented her signature omelet with a crab, for which she got her star.

Jay Fai street cafe in Bangkok received 1 star in 2017. Shrimp tom soup is 1,000 baht in it, while other street cafes sell it 10 times cheaper. But there is no end to the visitors, and many are not even afraid of the 7-hour queue, which will have to be defended in order to get inside.

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Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle, despite its name, is located in Singapore and is considered the cheapest establishment with a Michelin star. There you can have dinner for only $ 2, however, having defended a rather big queue.

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Braised chicken at Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice and Noodle in Singapore. Photo Credit: Shutterstock (Outlook Traveller)

Braised chicken at Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice and Noodle in Singapore. Photo Credit: Shutterstock (Outlook Traveller)

Tokyo, according to Michelin, the world capital of food. Here distributed more stars than in France (through the time it becomes so). And the largest number of Michelin-star restaurants per capita is in Switzerland.

At the moment, there are only 121 restaurants with 3 Michelin stars in the world. Of these, 29 are in Tokyo, 27 in France, 14 in the United States.

What is the influence of the stars?

In 2017, Michelin has mistakenly awarded a star to a small cafe for workers in the provincial town of Bourges.

Photo credit: adme.ru With my translation

Photo credit: adme.ru With my translation

It was confused with the respectable Parisian restaurant Le Bouche à Oreill, which is located on a street with a similar name. For those 2 days that the cafe was in the rating on the Michelin website, it was visited by a record number of guests, and on the phone all the time they wanted to book a table.

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The most award-winning Michelin chef Joel Robuchon assured: "When you get 1 Michelin star, your turnover grows by 20%. Already 2 stars - and your business brings 40% more revenue, and with 3 stars you will receive twice as much." The owners of the London restaurant Ellory said that after receiving 1 star, their profits increased by a third. So, on the one hand, the financial benefit is obvious.

A study at George Washington University showed that restaurants with 1 Michelin star increase their prices by an average of 15%, with 2 stars - by 55%, and from 3 - by 80%.

But sometimes a star can lead to bankruptcy, as happened last year with the Stockholm restaurant Esperanto, which is more than once recognized as the best in Sweden. The fact is that regular visitors — usually locals — are beginning to be less likely to visit restaurants marked with a star. Some are afraid of inflated prices, others - the influx of tourists. At the same time, the owner's costs are rising, because the status obliges to hire more qualified personnel and invest in his training.

Star Stories and Unwanted Stars (Is this possible?)

The famous French chef Bernard Loiseau, the prototype of the cook Gusto from the Ratatouille cartoon, from 15 years old dreamed of getting 3 Michelin stars. When he achieved this, his main task was to keep them. The pressure was so great that Loiseau did not cope with it, and because of rumors that he was going to be deprived of a star, he killed himself in 2003 before leaving the guidebook. In 1966, due to the loss of a star, another chef, Alain Zeke, shot himself, and in 1990, Alain Chapelle died of a heart attack - his restaurant lost 1 star out of 3.

Gusto from the Ratatouille cartoon

Gusto from the Ratatouille cartoon

The news of the death of Bernard Loiseau on the same day spread all over the world. Despite this, the restaurant of his name continued to work and did not close for a day, and for several more years he confirmed his 3-star status.

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Sebastien Brah and his father Michel Brah in his restaurant. Photo credit: http://www.hurriyet.com.tr

Sebastien Brah and his father Michel Brah in his restaurant. Photo credit: http://www.hurriyet.com.tr

Chef Sebastien Brah publicly rejected 3 Michelin stars in 2017 and asked the editors to exclude his restaurant from the directory. He said that he wanted to work in a calmer atmosphere and was tired of constantly experiencing tremendous pressure while cooking, thinking that perhaps this particular dish would be served to the inspector. At first, the creators of the guide went to meet him, but in 2019 they again included his institution in their list, already with 2 stars, finally making it clear that it was impossible to disappear from the guidebook at will.

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Julio Biosca, owner of the Casa Julio restaurant in Valencia, decided to get rid of the star in 2013. He realized that the presence of a star limits various innovations, and said that there would no longer be a tasting menu in his restaurant and that he would stop cooking in the style of Michelin cuisine.

Belgian chef Frederic Dogge also abandoned his star, because his desire to cook quality traditional food, such as fried chicken, was at odds with the expectations of some customers who go to the culinary show.

The chef and owner of Petersham Nurseries Café is Sky Gingell and breakfast is in her restaurant.Photo credit: petershamnurseries via Instagram, David M. Benett via Getty Images Entertainment

The chef and owner of Petersham Nurseries Café is Sky Gingell and breakfast is in her restaurant.Photo credit: petershamnurseries via Instagram, David M. Benett via Getty Images Entertainment

Petersham Nurseries Café, a London chebie-chic restaurant, received its star in 2011, and visitors' complaints were not long in coming. They were completely satisfied with the food, but they were unhappy with the lack of tablecloths on the tables, too informal and simple serving. In order not to adapt to the tastes of the public, Chef Sky Jingell decided to abandon the star and said in one interview that if she ever had another restaurant, she would pray not to get a star.

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Gary Pisano, a professor at Harvard Business School, believes that publicly rejecting Michelin stars is a good move: “When you voluntarily give up a star, they will not take it away from you. This is how to leave work without waiting for the dismissal. At the same time, you get a double benefit: on the one hand, clients know that you are worthy of a star, and on the other hand, you avoid capricious reviewers. ”

How do you feel about haute cuisine?

Have you ever been to Michelin restaurants,

or do you think that money can be spent more profitable?

Interesting links

Photo credit: http://chef.kiev.ua (Academia of cooking) student's work

Photo credit: http://chef.kiev.ua (Academia of cooking) student's work

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I am grateful for inspiration to the Russian site www.adme.ru

Old Michelin Bibendum. Photo credit: EaterNY via Twitter

Old Michelin Bibendum. Photo credit: EaterNY via Twitter

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