- Just in time for St. Patrick's Day my GREEN U-Gears Roadster

UGears Roadster - COMPLETE!!

Beautiful pics and videos of my UGears Roadster VM-01

44w ago
2.9K

You may have seen some of my previous sneak peak posts on progress of my UGears Roadster. It is made of plywood and goes together without any glue, only toothpicks and it's rubber band powered!

I'm not going to make a build article on this one since you can easily look on YouTube and find step-by-step videos. On UGears website you can even download the instructions in PDF format and buy this kit for $54.99 including FREE shipping:

For me, I really wanted to personalize this model, I didn't want it to look just like the box. Yes, I can appreciate the natural beauty of wood, but I really wanted to add some COLOR to mine. So that's exactly what I did using a combination of acrylic paint and black/ silver Sharpie markers. I didn't go FULL Model Builder on this thing and smooth out the hood with putty or anything like that. I still wanted to preserve the look and feel of the original model. Also, I did not alter the shape of any parts except for the rearview mirror so that I could install a clear plastic windshield.

Videos:

I'll start out with the videos I took of my completed model in action on the kitchen floor:

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Coming right at you! In high speed of course!

There is a fake working engine similar to a LEGO model car

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Slow motion of the fake piston engine in low speed

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0:08

Trying to keep the car in focus while cruising in high speed.

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Distance is pretty good, in high speed!

Beauty Shots:

Full disclosure:

I did break a few parts along the way but was able to glue them back together

Besides color, I did add 3 parts:

-The silver diamond plate covers on top of the fenders

-A chrome strip sticker on top of the hood

-A clear plastic windshield

I put chrome paint into the detail line that follows along the bottom edge of the sides. Unfortunately, after glossing over, some areas turned yellow . The green paint is acrylic that was brushed on and followed up with a few coats of gloss varnish.

I put chrome paint into the detail line that follows along the bottom edge of the sides. Unfortunately, after glossing over, some areas turned yellow . The green paint is acrylic that was brushed on and followed up with a few coats of gloss varnish.

I added a clear plastic windshield instead of just leaving it "simulated". To do this, I had to shave down the back of the rear view mirror. This was the only part of the kit that I alerted.

I added a clear plastic windshield instead of just leaving it "simulated". To do this, I had to shave down the back of the rear view mirror. This was the only part of the kit that I alerted.

Both sides of the hood open to reveal the "fake" engine.

Both sides of the hood open to reveal the "fake" engine.

I tried my best to finish off all visible surfaces except the gears. The shifter in the center console does work for Fwd, Rvs, and Neutral.

I tried my best to finish off all visible surfaces except the gears. The shifter in the center console does work for Fwd, Rvs, and Neutral.

I bought special plastic diamond plats to help dress up the tops of the fenders in front of the doors. The black bar in front of the engine is the steering linkage.

I bought special plastic diamond plats to help dress up the tops of the fenders in front of the doors. The black bar in front of the engine is the steering linkage.

I painted a portion of the wheel nuts before assembling, and the remaining after. Each wheel is made of 5 layers and each had to be painted individually. The white detailing on the side wall, were features already burned into the wood by UGears.

I painted a portion of the wheel nuts before assembling, and the remaining after. Each wheel is made of 5 layers and each had to be painted individually. The white detailing on the side wall, were features already burned into the wood by UGears.

I did NOT add any details to the interior, only painted what was already there. High and low speeds are activated with the gas and brake pedals.

I did NOT add any details to the interior, only painted what was already there. High and low speeds are activated with the gas and brake pedals.

The gauge faces and needles were detailed with colored pencils. As you can see, I left areas of the dashboard and steering wheel unpainted and stained them.

The gauge faces and needles were detailed with colored pencils. As you can see, I left areas of the dashboard and steering wheel unpainted and stained them.

The color order to paint the tail lights, I took from from '50's ~ '60's Aston Martins

The color order to paint the tail lights, I took from from '50's ~ '60's Aston Martins

I couldn't decide what color would look best for the rear top cover so I just stained and varnished it. It's really my favorite part now.

I couldn't decide what color would look best for the rear top cover so I just stained and varnished it. It's really my favorite part now.

I actually broke the front bumper/ plate and had to glue it. Deciding what color to paint the accessory lights took a lot of time. I think if I was going to do it again, I may reverse the colors of the running lights and turn signals.

I actually broke the front bumper/ plate and had to glue it. Deciding what color to paint the accessory lights took a lot of time. I think if I was going to do it again, I may reverse the colors of the running lights and turn signals.

I added the chrome strip to the middle of the hood in an attempt to dress things up a bit.

I added the chrome strip to the middle of the hood in an attempt to dress things up a bit.

As best I can tell from the overall shape of the car, and the gills behind the front wheels, I think the design was adapted from a Morgan8.

As best I can tell from the overall shape of the car, and the gills behind the front wheels, I think the design was adapted from a Morgan8.

With this model, I just wanted to add color and a few details but not change the overall look or feel by smoothing out the hood or anything like that.

With this model, I just wanted to add color and a few details but not change the overall look or feel by smoothing out the hood or anything like that.

I tried my best to finish off the undercarriage as well but note, I did NOT color the gears to ensure the model would work well and thought it was also neat to see them move in natural wood.

I tried my best to finish off the undercarriage as well but note, I did NOT color the gears to ensure the model would work well and thought it was also neat to see them move in natural wood.

Underside of the fake engine. The square pieces and big sliver one at the bottom move a lot more in slow gear. The lever to activate this is that silver dog bone and is activated with the gas and break pedals.

Underside of the fake engine. The square pieces and big sliver one at the bottom move a lot more in slow gear. The lever to activate this is that silver dog bone and is activated with the gas and break pedals.

The horizontal pieces in the center moves forward and backward for Fwd, Rvs, and Neutral. Also behind that you can see the REAL rubber band motor!

The horizontal pieces in the center moves forward and backward for Fwd, Rvs, and Neutral. Also behind that you can see the REAL rubber band motor!

Building Advice:

Here are my tips for building this model successfully:

-Take your time when removing the pieces from the sheets and don't remove too many pieces at once so you don't loose track of what part number they are

-When you remove each pieces there are little nubs where it was attached to the sheet. Sand them all down, your model will look better and function better.

-Remember to take your time, assembling of this model should be enjoyable not a race.

-All the pieces are plywood so take care in assembly and if needed wax shafts so that parts can slide down them or sand them a little bit if needed. Using too much force on something that is not properly supported will cause parts to break! It's okay if you have to sand stuff down so that it doesn't fit as snugly as intended. You can use a little glue if needed. I did not do this but should have in a few areas where I used too much force and broke a part.

-Order this kit from UGears directly, Amazon, or someone reputable aka not eBay, otherwise replacement parts may not be FREE.

-Areas where wooden parts are sliding against each other should really be smooth, almost polished with fine sandpaper

-Use the included wax or a smaller candle liberally to all parts that move against one another after polishing the areas.

-There should be NO binding in your drivetrain and it should be TOTALLY free. Keep trying this out as your are building so that you don't have to disassemble to optimize areas. YES I had to do this several times. This wastes time AND opens up the possibility of breaking parts.

Thanks for reading!!!

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Comments (16)

  • this may interest you.

      10 months ago
  • That is a great model and your assembly is amazing!!

      10 months ago
  • Damn, that looks like a fun project but finicky as hell. What is that weird flapping thing when the motor is running?

      10 months ago
    • It's a weight that moves more when the car is at low speed to dissipate some energy. If you build it right, it won't be too finicky, honestly. You just need to pay attention to the details.

        10 months ago
  • I love this model, it's amazing!!

      10 months ago
  • That's a great model! And your personalization makes it much more better!

      10 months ago
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